Two-unit welting



Nov., 2l, w50 w. c. VIZARD Two-UNIT WELTING Filed March 26, 1949 Patented Nov. 21 ,l 19` TWO-UNIT WELTING William C. Vizard', Brockton, Mass., assignor to Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, Mass., a

copartnership Application March 26, 1949, Serial No. 83,660 i 4 Claims.

This invention relates to two-unit welting of the heavy edge type disclosed in my prior Patents No. 2,414,249, dated January 14, 1947, and No. 2,427,984, dated September 23, 1947.

The shoe welting produced in accordance with the disclosures of my said patents comprises a base portion and a top portion cemented and molded together, the top portion having a grain surface constituting the welt vextension and a grain lip extending along its inner edge and folded downwardly and cemented against an inclined shoulder of the top unit and against the inner edge of the bottom unit.

The principal purpose of the present invention is to provide a welt of the aforesaid type in which the grain lip is omitted, thereby simplifying and expediting the welt making process, by forming a shoulder along the inner edge of the top unit, at the upper portion thereof, the shoulder being curved or inclined inwardly to provide a longitudinal recess or groove which permits the inrseam lip of the two-unit welting to flex freely when sewed into the shoe and which receives the inseam stitch.

A further object of the invention is to provide a two-unit welting having a top section provided with a esh lip extending inwardly beyond the aforesaid shoulder and cemented to the top of the inner edge of the bottom section or unit, to provide an inseam edge which has adequate thickness but which is more flexible than the inseam edge of the grain surfaced sewing edge shown in my prior patents.

The shoulder of the top unit is thus composed partly of grain leather and partly of esh leather, and this shoulder lits snugly against the upper of the shoe made with the improved welting. When the shoulder is rounded, in cross section, as preferred, it hugs more closely against the shoe upper and serves to prevent grinning of the seam, or channg of the upper during the shoemaking operations.

A recommended embodiment of the invention, showing a preferred method of making the improved welting, is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, but it will be understood that the manufacturing process and the structural details of the welt product herein illustrated and described may be varied to suit particular requirements, without departing from the essence of this invention, as defined in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. l is a perspective' view of a leather lillet formed with longitudinal cuts designed to produce the two units of the heavy edge welting;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, showing the llet partially separated to indicate the formationy of the respective units;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the assembled, two-unit welting, and also illustrating the removal of a string-like piece from the inner edge of the base or bottom unit, and the formation of the inseam groove in said base; and

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary section through the toe portion of a shoe made with the welt of Fig. 3.

In the particular form chosen for the purpose of illustration, the improved welt is made from a leather llet II having a width of iand a thickness of 1A3", the grain surface of the fillet being uppermost in Figs. 1 and 2. The fillet is divided longitudinally by a knife which separates the llet into two strands I2 and I3, by a trans. verse cut extending through the grain surface at I 4 and curving at I5 into a part of the esh p0rtion of the fillet, then extending at I6, at a slight downward inclination to the plane of the fillet, and finally terminating in a downward incision Il to the bottom of the llet, as shown in Fig. 1.

This irregular longitudinal cut produces a top unit I3 having a rounded shoulder I8 extending along the inner edge of its upper portion, a groove or recess I9 extending along the bottom of said shoulder, and a flesh lip or flange 20 projecting laterally beyond said shoulder, as shown in Fig. 2; and a base unit I2 having a grain flange 2I extending along one edge thereof, the llange 2l being of reduced thickness and having a recessed edge 22 formed by the cut I5, as also shown in Fig. 2.

In assembling the two welt strands or units, the flesh side of the top unit I3 is applied to the grain side of the base unit I2, with the esh flange 29 and grain ange 2I in substantial registration, and the two parts are lrmly cemented together, as shown in Fig. 3. A small esh ribbon or rand 23 is preferably cut from the under edge of the flange 2l, and the inseam groove 24 is formed behind said flange, either before or after the parts are assembled. The two-unit welting I Fig. 4, with the shoulder I8 fitting closely against the upper, beneath the feather of the insole. Inasmuch as the flange 20 of the top unit is of esh stock, the sewing edge formed by said elements may be flexed freely, and the groove I9 provides a convenient hinge on which the twoply edge may be bent downwardly during the inseaming and welt beating operations. The reduced thickness of the flange I2 of the base unit assists in alfording such flexibility.

Although the flange 2| has an upper surface of grain leather, when the parts arel assembled, as above described, it will be evident that the base unit l2 may be reversed in position, so that the ilesh side of the top unit is applied and cemented. to the flesh side of the bottom unit, the inseam groove being then cut in the exposed grain side' of the base unit. In such case, the flesh flange 20 of the top unit would be bent downwardly onto; the stepped flange 2i of the base unit in assembling the two strands; and such modification of the welt herein described is ycontemplated as within the scope of this. invention which relates primarily to two-unit `welting in which the top unit has a receding shoulder inclined, and preferabl-y curved, downwardly and rearwardly from its grain surface, to form a longitudinal groove between the shoulder and the flesh flange which projects laterally beyond the shoulder and overlies a reducedV flange of the bottom unit.

I claim:

1. Two-unit weltingcomprising a base unit having a flange of reduced thickness along its inner edge, and a top unit having a grain surface, a longitudinal shoulder extending downwardlyfrom said surface intermediate the edges of said unit, and a longitudinalv flesh flange extending laterally beyond said shoulder, the flesh side of theY top unit being cementedto one side ofv the basey unit withi said flanges in substantial registration, said shoulder receding from the. grain surface into the flesh portion of the top unit, and said topunit having a longitudinal groove between said receding shoulder and said fleshflange.

2. Two-unit welting comprising a base unit having a flange of reduced thickness along its 4 inner edge, and a top unit having a grain surface, a longitudinal shoulder extending downwardly from said surface intermediate the edges of said unit, and a longitudinal flesh flange extending laterally beyond said shoulder, the flesh side of the top unit being cemented to one side of the base unit with said flanges in substantial registration, said shoulderinclining downwardly and rearwardly from the grain surface and into the flesh portion of the top unit, and said top unit having a longitudinal groove between said shoulder. and said flesh flange.

3. Two-unit welting comprising a base unit having a flange of reduced thickness along its inner'edge, and' a top unit having a grain surface, a longitudinal shoulder extending downwardly from said surface intermediate the edges of said unit, and a longitudinal flesh flange extending laterally beyond said shoulder, the flesh side of the top unit being cemeted to one side of the" base unit with said flanges in substantial registration, said shoulder being curved in cross-l section and receding fyrom the grain surface into the flesh portion of the top unit, and said top unit having a longitudinal groove between said receding shoulder and said flesh flange.

4a, Two-unit welting comprising a base unit having agrain side and a grain flange of reduced thickness along its inner edge, and a top unit having a grain side, a rounded longitudinal shoul-` der inclining downwardly and rearwardly from its grain side intermediate the edges of said unit, a longitudinal flesh: flange extending laterally belond said shoulder as a continuation of the flesh side of said unit, and a longitudinal` groove between said shoulder and flange, the flesh side of the top unitebeing cementedy to the grain side of the base:l unit with said flanges in substantial registration.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

No references cited. 

